Day 10- The Price to Hear Angels Sing

As promised, I went to Vespers and the nun’s were incredible. There were a number of pilgrims in attendance. The nuns, 5 of them, played the guitar, organ and a bongo (probably goes by another name). They sang and played their songs and prayers in a Gothic style church. Their voices were sweet and beautiful and carried all throughout the church. At the end of Vespers, they asked all the pilgrims to come to the altar- about 6 of us. A nun put her hands on my forehead and asked for God’s blessing to keep me safe on my journey and she recited a pilgrim prayer. Her gentle hands had incredible energy. I will leave it at that. After Vespers, I went back to my room and went to bed. I was startled awake about 11:30 by the most awful sound. I have to go back in time to explain. During the day’s walk, I stopped for some coffee and food. At a table next to me sat 3 young pilgrims. I could not help but overhear their conversation. One of the young men complained he had to share a room the night before with a German guy who snored the loudest and longest he ever heard in his life. He described it as almost violent. I was sharing a room with the German Snorer! Like the young lad, I had never heard anyone snore so loudly or so viciously. If it had been talking he would have been screaming. And there was no rhythm or consistency to it. I wrapped my pillow around my head to try and muffle the madness but that failed as his snoring easily pierced the pillow. Not only could I not sleep it was driving me crazy. Look, I don’t blame the guy nor was I mad at him. I don’t think anyone intentionally snores or even knows they are snoring. Some time after midnight, I got up, took my pillow, blankets and sleeping bag liner and went out into the hall, to do what , I have no idea. The area had nothing, no sitting room, no couch, no chairs except the ones at a long dining table which also had a narrow wooden bench. Maybe I would try sleeping on the bench. Then the miracle happened. One of the nuns was walking downstairs. I called to her and told her I needed a place to sleep as my roommate was snoring real bad. I was able to talk to her in Spanish except for the word “snore”, so I imitated him. She said something I didn’t understand and walked back upstairs to my hallway. She wanted to know which room I was in. She opened it a crack and she instantly recoiled, shut the door and told me to come with her. She got some keys and checked the room next to mine but it was full. The next room down was empty so she gave it to me. I was saved. But? Once I nestled in, I heard it. The snoring. It wasn’t loud or bothersome but I could faintly hear it two rooms down. I slept well and my Whoop sleep tracker gave me a 92% for the night.

This morning, I got ready for the day. Lauds was scheduled for 7:45. If I attended, I would get a real late start on what would be a long, difficult and at times treacherous walk. I decided against rushing toward the Camino. I am learning to slow down and enjoy the world around me. At 7:45, a nun opened the church door and then led me to a room just off the altar. All the nuns were there and at first I was the only lay person. They began their morning ritual of prayer and song, some in English for my benefit no doubt. About halfway through two young pilgrim women entered and sang along with the nuns. I can’t tell you how moved I was by these nuns letting me into their world to celebrate Christ. They asked me if I would read a prayer in English for them. It was kind of long and my memory fails me on the content but happily I took on the roll. At the end, they wished us well and blessed us again. I went over to the nuns and thanked the one who rescued me from the German Snorer. She smiled and let out a little laugh. The others looked puzzled. That experience sustained me through a tough day (and I hope longer), including a wet, muddy and slippery peak I had to ascend sometimes on all 4s, and an equally difficult downhill. I did slip and fall. Luckily I grabbed a bush. Unluckily it had prickers. On to the pictures….