Day 18- Speed Dating
Editors Note- on Day 16 I promised to describe my first home cooked meal on this journey. I was so caught up in my whining, I forgot to describe the meal- Sorry Scott, Grace and others. It was awesome comfort food. The meal started with a soup of ground veal, orzo, egg and an incredible broth. On the side- bread with sunflower seeds, excellent. The next course was pork stew. Large chunks of pork, potatoes, carrots and another phenomenal broth. Next was a fresh crisp garden salad with really tasty tomatoes. The main course was chicken grilled and then set in a sauce that was delicious. The final course was flan. I ate in an outdoor room with heaters. I was the only one. I took my time. I enjoyed every bite and the owner took great care of me. The other couple staying in the house ate after me.
All 3 Caminos I’ve walked each had their own different character. I can not rank them, each is special in their own way. However I can compare and contrast them. This is where the speed dating comes in. On the Via De La Plata and the Frances the routes were set and the Apps synced with the trail markers. Last year I followed the yellow dots of my App religiously. I even dedicated a blog day to my decision to deviate from the route. I anguished over straying from the dots. The Norte is totally different. Markings for old routes now abandoned remain to confuse pilgrims. Routes on the App are not marked on the trail. Trails marked by arrows and shells don’t appear on the App. Some marked routes just don’t make sense to take. The App will suggest multiple alternate routes. Multiple times a day, I come to an intersection where I have multiple choices. I have to make a quick decision. I have never speed dated and I really don’t know what it means but I feel like that’s what I’m doing time and time again when I pick which road or path to walk. Sometimes I create my own route. On the other two Caminos the route was essentially set and I would get comfortable with it, I would rely on it. I could trust it. The intense variability of route options here leaves me less grounded. Again, not bad, just different.
Today started with heavy rains and while relatively short (less than 14 miles) the sogginess made it seem longer. I never got to dry out. At one point, I spotted my friend Mike in the distance. I thought I might be able to catch him so I picked up my pace, I was gaining. Then I spotted a chapel. Decision time- do I blow past the chapel in my effort to catch Mike or do I stop and pray and reflect. I chose the latter. My route took me by two old churches and I happily gave up all hope of catching Mike. Instead I tried to draw strength from those holy places. I think of all the souls who have passed through those doors and into those sanctuaries over many centuries, carrying with them, hopes, dreams, sins, sadness, repentance, joy, thanks, sorrow. I think of all those emotions flowing in and out of those houses of worship and I ask God to help me immerse myself in all that has gone before me at each church I touch or if lucky, enter.
Mike and I had a farewell dinner tonight. Today was my last day on the Norte. I turn onto the Primitivo about 2 miles into tomorrow’s walk. I do so with a little trepidation. I am going up into the mountains and there are a number of challenging days. Even the name sounds foreboding. We shall see. The journey continues.
One of tonight’s courses- artichokes and Iberian ham. Off the charts! The serving was bigger. I started eating it before I took the photo of what was left.